In the meantime, enjoy the ride

Since I really don't know anything about surfing on a board, and though I did a fair bit of east coast kayak surfing, I probably have a very simple perspective on the thing. But of course that never keeps me or anyone else from opining.

Sit on the beach and criticize.
Go out in the surf and scream and beat on the waves.
Paddle out, watch, turnaround, paddle, ride, wipe out, survive, learn, paddle out, repeat.

One choice produces fun. One choice inspires. One choice produces awe moments over and over and over and over...

Someone said that 50 percent of success is showing up. Maybe.
100% of success is going back out and standing up again.

Daddy, You make it so good to be in Your family. Thank you. It is so good to be home. Hold me, please.